7-Day Nakahechi Self-Guided Walk - Kumano Kodo

The Kumano Kodo is a popular walk at certain times of year and guesthouses/hotels sometimes get fully booked. This itinerary is a guide to a possible route. Details may change and the actual accommodations booked may vary from what is written here, dependent on client numbers, wishes and availability. This adjustment with accommodations may alter the exact distance walked in a day so the itinerary should be used as an indication only to overnight stops/distances.

The best way to reach Kii-Tanabe is by train (tickets not included and purchased locally). There are frequent trains from Osaka and Kyoto travelling southwards to Kii-Tanabe. Here the railway line parallels the coast and avoids the steep mountainous interior. The nearest major International Airport is Kansai (Osaka), from where you can take a 2-hour train journey to Kii-Tanabe. Train travel from Osaka to Kii-Tanabe takes just over 2 hours and from Kyoto approximately 2.5 to 3 hours.

Kii-Tanabe is the gateway town to the historic Imperial Route of the Kumano Kodo. Upon arrival, visit the Tanabe Tourist Information Centre to pick up your orientation pack and to drop off your luggage. From Kii-Tanabe you’ll take a local bus to Takijiri-Oji, the starting point of today’s walk.

Although relatively short, this introductory hike offers a rewarding challenge with a steady uphill climb. As you ascend, you’ll follow an ancient pilgrimage route marked by Oji shrines, Buddhist statues, and other historical remnants.

Your destination and rest point for the night is the peaceful mountain village of Takahara, perched on a ridge with sweeping views of the Hatenashi Mountain Range. This rural hamlet is known for its tranquil atmosphere and revered shrine, making it a memorable first stop on your Kumano Kodo journey.

Leaving Takahara today the trail leads you deeper into the mountains, weaving through serene bamboo groves and later into stands of pencil pine. Along the way, you’ll encounter relics of the old Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route, including an ichirizuka (traditional distance marker) and the remains of former teahouses that once offered rest to weary travelers up until the early 20th century.

A short ascent brings you to the Hashiori-Toge Pass after which the trail gently descends past the Three-Fold Moon viewpoint—an atmospheric spot steeped in local legend. From here, a brief climb leads to the Gyuba-doji statue, a small yet iconic figure representing a young prince riding a horse and cow simultaneously, symbolising devotion and humility.

The trail then winds down a cobbled path and stone staircase into Chikatsuyu, a charming village nestled in the valley and one of the few spots where you can stock up on drinks or basic supplies.

The day concludes with a final uphill stretch to Tsugizakura-Oji. Nearby, don’t miss the sacred grove of ancient cedar trees, some believed to be over 800 years old, standing as silent witnesses to centuries of pilgrimage.

Meals: B, L, D

Today’s walk begins with a series of climbs over forested mountain passes. Facilities along this section are limited and the path leads you deep into the quiet serenity of the forest before emerging to the shrine at Hosshinmon-oji. Historically, Hosshinmon-oji marked the outermost entrance to the sacred precincts of Kumano Hongu Taisha. The name means “Gate of Awakening of the Aspiration to Enlightenment,” symbolising a spiritual threshold for pilgrims on their journey.

From Hosshinmon-Oji, you’ll take a local bus to the Kumano Hongu area. The highlight here is Kumano Hongu Taisha, the grand central shrine of the region and spiritual heart of the Kumano pilgrimage. A long, stone staircase leads up to its serene forest setting, where ancient cedar and cypress trees frame the shrine’s elegant architecture.

After your visit, a short bus ride brings you to Kawayu Onsen, a tranquil hot spring village and your home for the next two nights. This peaceful riverside retreat is beloved by walkers, with thermal steam rising from the riverbanks and the inviting promise of a rejuvenating soak in a traditional onsen bath—a ritual deeply rooted in Kumano pilgrimage customs.

This evening enjoy a delicious Japanese meal at your accommodation.

Meals: B, L, D

This morning, you’ll take a local bus back to Hosshinmon-Oji, where you’ll rejoin the Kumano Kodo for the memorable walk into Kumano Hongu Taisha. This final stretch is steeped in symbolism, marking the pilgrim’s ceremonial entry into the sacred heart of the Kumano region.

The trail gently winds through tranquil cedar and cypress forests, past terraced rice fields and rustic rural hamlets with occasional vistas opening up to the surrounding mountains. Along the way, you’ll encounter several Oji shrines, once important rest stops for ancient pilgrims, each offering insight into the spiritual heritage of the route. 

As you near Kumano Hongu Taisha, the forest gives way to a long stone staircase leading up to the majestic shrine complex, nestled on a forested ridge and framed by towering trees. You have the opportunity to take more time to explore this revered site before returning by local bus to Kawayu Onsen, where you can relax once more in the soothing hot spring baths—a fitting way to unwind after your rewarding journey.

Meals: B, D

This morning begins with a short bus ride to Ukegawa, where you’ll start today’s walk along the Kogumotori-goe, one of the most scenic sections of the Kumano Kodo. This relatively gentle trail takes you through forested mountains, with a steady climb and descent over a pass and some enjoyable ridge-walking along the way.

A highlight of the day is the Hyakken-gura lookout, where a gracefully placed Buddhist statue sits atop a hill with a breathtaking panoramic view. From this vantage point, you can see the endless waves of the 3,600 peaks of Kumano—a view that has inspired and moved pilgrims for over a thousand years. Take a moment here to rest and soak in the beauty.

The path continues with gentle undulations, and occasional steeper sections, as you make your way toward the Sakura-jaya teahouse remains. This scenic spot offers another sweeping view across the mountains and down into the valleys below. According to local legend, the teahouse owners would begin preparing mochi rice cakes and tea as soon as they spotted pilgrims approaching from afar—ensuring a warm welcome upon arrival.

From here, the trail descends gradually through peaceful forest before leading you into Koguchi, a small, remote village cradled by mountains and rivers. It’s a quiet, restful place—perfect for reflecting on the journey so far.

Meals: B, L, D

Today marks the final and most challenging leg of your Kumano Kodo journey: the Ogumotori-goe Trail, the second day of the two-day trek connecting the Hongu area to Kumano Nachi Taisha. This is widely considered one of the most demanding sections of the Nakahechi route, so an early start is essential.

The day begins with a formidable 2.5-hour climb up Dogiri-zaka, ominously known as the “Body-Breaking Slope.” This steep 5-kilometre ascent rises 800 metres to the Echizen-toge Pass, testing both stamina and determination.

From the pass, the trail leads past the Jizo-jaya teahouse remains and continues to the mystical Moja-no-Deai, or “Abode of the Dead”—a place believed to be inhabited by ancestral spirits, where pilgrims once reflected on the spiritual nature of their journey. The path then winds through quiet forest, climbing and descending along mountain ridges.

At the Funami-toge Pass, a striking moment awaits as the trees part to reveal your first views of the Pacific Ocean—a breathtaking sight that marks your descent to the sacred site of Nachisan.

The trail ends in spectacular fashion at Kumano Nachi Taisha, one of the three grand shrines of Kumano. Nearby are two other iconic landmarks: the elegant wooden Seiganto-ji Temple and the towering Nachi-no-Otaki Waterfall, Japan’s tallest at 133 metres, visible even from offshore.

Tonight stay in either in Nachisan or Kii Katsuura, a small fishing village approximately 20-minute bus ride from Nachisan. Relax and enjoy the completion of your extraordinary Kumano Kodo walk!

Meals: B, L D

Enjoy a leisurely breakfast and then transfer by train to your onwards destination. Train tickets are not included and can be purchased locally at the Kii-Katsuura train station.

Meals: B

• 6 nights in traditional Japanese guesthouses (twin share, shared bathroom)
• Daily meals included as listed in the itinerary
• Orientation pack collected on arrival in Kii-Tanabe
• Luggage transfers on the Kumano Kodo on all trekking days
• RAW Travel’s exclusive interactive navigation app
• RAW Travel luggage tag & buff
• Carbon offset for your trip and a native tree planted for every walker

• Local bus tickets
• Train tickets to/from trail
• Flights to/from destination
• Travel insurance
• Single supplement
• Beverages other than water at meals
• Expenses and items of a personal nature