28 Nov 24

Guide to the Nakasendo Trail: walking the historic samurai way through ancient Japan

Dianne Lee Japan

The Nakasendo Way offers a one-of-a-kind journey through Japan’s rich history and breathtaking natural landscapes. Once a bustling trade route connecting Tokyo (then Edo) and Kyoto, this historic trail invites travellers to step back in time and experience the charm of 17th-century Japan.

As you walk along the ancient stone paths, you’ll discover hidden waterfalls, wander through tranquil forests of towering cedar and cypress, and rest in traditional inns renowned for their warm hospitality. Each step along the trail carries echoes of people who journeyed this road centuries ago.

What’s the history of Nakasendo Trail?

The Nakasendo Way, meaning ‘Central Mountain Road’, dates back to the Edo period (1603–1868). Located in Central Japan in the southwestern Nagano prefecture, in its heyday the 534km-long Nakasendo Road served as one of five main routes connecting Edo to the rest of Japan, and was bustling with feudal lords, samurai, nobles, commoners, and merchants alike. 

Unlike the coastal Tokaido route, the mountainous Nakasendo traverses inland through the Kiso Valley, wedged between two of Japan’s sacred mountains (Mt Ontake 3067m and Mt Komagatake 2956m). The 69 post towns along the way were hubs where weary travellers could rest, eat, and stock up on supplies.

Today, you can walk the most beautiful and enjoyable parts of the old ‘highway’ from Mitake to Narai – a stunning 86km journey steeped in history. 

What are the highlights of the trail?

The Nakasendo Way is brimming with cultural and scenic treasures. Much of the route weaves through the picturesque Kiso Valley, nestled between imposing mountain cliffs and home to a handful of preserved towns. In days gone by, these were known as ‘juku’ or post towns and served as overnight spots for weary travellers. Strung out along the route, they give an enticing and authentic glimpse into Japan’s past.

  • Post towns: Explore beautifully restored Edo-period villages like Tsumago, Magome and Narai, where cobblestone streets and wooden inns transport you back in time. The well-known 8km trail between Tsumago and Magome is particularly impressive and offers delightful teahouses and waterfalls.
  • Kiso Valley: Known for its towering cedar trees, beautiful old towns, and hot springs, this is a hiker’s paradise. Regional culinary delights include Kiso beef, soba buckwheat noodles, gohei mochi and oyaki (dumplings). 
  • Kiso-Fukushima: A notable post town in the Kiso Road, known for its local hospitality and hot springs.
  • Historical markers: Stone waymarkers and kosatsuba (notice boards) along the path tell stories of feudal Japan.

There is a lot to discover on this route. This is a world of traditional inns, moss-covered shinto shrines, old Buddhist statues and stone paths. Much of the time on the trail you will be walking through tranquil fields and rural villages seeing life in small-town Japan, close-up. In some sections, you’ll walk on the original ishidatami (stone paving) dating back over 400 years. It will give you a unique and authentic experience of traditional Japan.

Nakasendo is also a journey through modern Japan. You pass through a couple of sizeable towns such as Nakatsugawa and Kiso-Fukushima where you can explore aspects of Japanese life with our guided back street tours and other cultural activities.

How difficult is the trail?

This walk is moderately challenging, with varying terrain that includes paved paths, forest trails and stone-paved streets. The daily walking distance range from 8km to 21km, and there are inclines that can be taken at a comfortable pace. The highest point on the trail is the Torii Pass (1197m) when you are walking between Yabuhara and Narai. 

It is important to understand that this is not an easy walk. Options to shorten the hike must be discussed in advance. You will need a good level of physical fitness and you will need to prepare yourself with regular training.

Signs are in Japanese for most of the walk, and English between Magome and Tsumago. The route is variously indicated by different types of signs from wooden finger posts to stone markers to metal signs. If you are walking self-guided, you can use our RAW Travel app, which will have all your trip information and route guidance in one handy place. With any self-guided trip you still need to be self-reliant with wayfinding and problem solving. Experience has taught us that a mixture of navigation tools leads to the best outcomes.

How long does it take to walk the Nakasendo Trail?

For the full route, you’ll need 7 or 8 days, including arrival and departure days. We offers a range of guided and fully supported self-guided walks, from 5 to 9 day days. Contact our Japan specialists at japan@rawtravel.com to discuss which walk will work best for you. On our fully guided walk you’ll be accompanied by our excellent local Japanese (bilingual) guide who has extensive and fascinating knowledge of the history and culture of this walk and Japan itself.

What’s the accommodation like on the trail?

Accommodation along the trail is in traditional Japanese-style inns, ryokans. Staying in a ryokan is the best way to experience Japanese hospitality first-hand, and most ryokans also include dinner and breakfast. Many of the ryokans you’ll stay at on RAW Travel’s Nakasendo walks also have an onsen, a Japanese hot spring, available with the accommodation. Everyone who has walked the trail knows this is truly the best way to relax after a long day of hiking.

What’s the best time to hike the Nakasendo Trail?

The Nakasendo Way is best walked in Spring (March to May) and Autumn (September to November) for mild weather and beautiful scenery (cherry blossoms or autumn leaves). These are popular months, so we recommend you book your trip with us well in advance so that we can secure you the best accommodation along the trail. 

Walking tips for the Nakasendo Way

  • It is very rare to see a bear, however, we recommended ring the bear bells when you are walking through the forest sections to make the bears aware that you are there.
  • Walking poles are useful on the Nakasendo Way. We definitely recommend them if you have – or have had – any issues at all with sore knees, ankles or hips. 
  • We include a daily luggage transfer service in our trips, so your main luggage is transported on main travel days. You only need to carry a small daypack with essentials.
  • Carry sufficient walking drinking with you each day. There are few places to fill up along the trail.

Getting to the Nakasendo Trail

If you are walking only the Nakasendo Way, you can fly into the international airport at Nagoya, approximately 1.5 hours from the start of the walk at Mitake. Alternatively you can fly into Tokyo and catch the train to Nagoya. If you are planning other travels in Japan, Tokyo, or Osaka are your best options.

Reaching the trail is straightforward, thanks to Japan’s efficient transport network. Most travellers start their journey from Tokyo, Nagoya or Kyoto, with easy access to key points on the trail.

  • From Tokyo or Osaka: Take the bullet train to Nagoya Station. The journey takes about 1 hour 40 mins from Tokyo or about 1 hour from Osaka.
  • From Nagoya: The Nakasendo trail is just a short train ride away, with many post towns like Magome and Tsumago accessible within 1 hour. To Mitake the train takes about 1 hour 45 minutes; to Nakatsugawa it’s about 50 minutes.
  • From Kyoto: You can reach the trail by connecting through Nagoya Station and continuing on the JR Chuo Line.

What our travellers say about walking the Nakasendo Way 

An amazing experience. The walks were through the most beautiful places and the scenery was an absolute joy to walk through each day. The food was outstanding – interesting and delicious. Loved staying in authentic ryokans. The one in Hosokute was exceptional. The villages were very interesting and the people were very friendly.” – Jane Hardman, Nakasendo Way: The Shimosuwa Trip Self Guided (9 days)

We loved the walk through small towns, forests and rural areas of Japan. The local guides were fantastic. They provided valuable insight into the culture, people and history of Japan. This added richness to the experience which we would not have gained doing a self-guided walk.” Andrew Cupit, Nakasendo Way Guided Trip (7 days)

Our journey along the Nakasendo Way was everything we’d hoped it would be. The app, route preparation notes and the initial contact in Japan were faultless and seamless in preparing us for our adventure. We had an amazing cultural, scenic and soul-fulfilling journey, immersed daily in tradition, nature, history and mystery. Thank you so much. We will remember this experience for many years to come.” – Karen & Vivien, Nakasendo Self Guided (7 days)

Our Nakasendo Way journey was incredible. Walking beside rivers and through forests then arriving to an onsen and fabulous Japanese cuisine – heavenly. RAW Travel were incredible: great communication, excellent service and a competitive price. Could not recommend this experience enough.” – Cherie Butcher, Nakasendo Self Guided (7 days)

  • Read more reviews about walking the Nakasendo Way

We can help with your Nakasendo Way itinerary

RAW Travel has operated active walking trips in Japan for many, many years. We are one of the most experienced and reputable operators you can choose. We book all our Nakasendo Way arrangements directly, and you’ll have the back-up of our own staff member in Japan who lives in this area and will meet you at the start of your trip. If you need assistance at any time, he is never far away. We also have an exceptional daily luggage transfer service.

Many people combine the Kumano Kodo and Nakasendo Way in one trip. The best way to do this would be to do the Kumano Kodo first, then hike the Nakasendo trail as this will reduce the amount of travel time between destinations and eliminate any backtracking. If you have more time between each walk, a side trip to Kyoto is highly recommended. The former capital of Japan is a wonderful contrast between old and new, modern and traditional, energy and serenity.

Interested in our other Japan walking holidays?

We also offer walks on the ancient Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail and the new Michinoku Coastal Trail, as well as an exceptional guided trip on Okinawa Island.

Since 2006, RAW Travel has supported more than 25,000 walkers to experience the world’s most iconic walks. Experience the RAW Travel difference for yourself.

Dianne Lee

Written By

Dianne Lee

Di loves assisting RAW clients with their hiking goals. As a keen distance runner, Di has competed in Italy's Ferrari Marathon and Japan's Nagai Marathon. For many years she was a personal trainer and managed a health and wellness centre. She has travelled extensively through Japan, Europe, India, Kashmir, South America, New Zealand and Australia.