The Shimosuwa Trip

Depart Nagoya train station in the morning to Mitake Station. At Mitake you will have a short briefing before departing on your walk. Our local RAW Travel representative will also be able to recommend a local lunch spot (at your own expense) prior to commencing your walk. After lunch, begin walking through the town, before leaving the road to make your way into the forest up a short hill known as the Cows Nose is Missing. This is the true beginning of your Nakasendo Way walk. Stay in the forest on this very scenic section through woodland and lush green countryside, walking on some of the original stoned paving known as ishidatami. There will be a chance to stop at La Provence Cafe before continuing your steady climb towards Hosokute and your accommodation for the evening.

Meals: D

Enjoy your traditional Japanese breakfast and prepare for an exciting day following in the footsteps of the Samurai. Today you walk on a very old section known as the 13 passes and 13 peaks. There has been no public access through here, which keeps the area completely undeveloped, save for a golf course. The original way used to go through the golf course; nowadays you will follow the boundary of the course and again you will be walking on traditional stone paths. There is even a section that has only been rediscovered in the last few years. Continuing on your way through the mountains you will come across the well-preserved post town called Okute. It’s here you will discover a sacred cedar tree thought to be 1200 years old. You travel along the ridge tops before descending into Ena, where you can visit the Tokaido Hiroshige Museum, which features prints of the Nakasendo Way.

Meals: B, D

Today is a much shorter day, with gentle and undulating walking. You pass through towns, villages and parts of the city across rice paddies, fields and even through home gardens, talking to the locals along the way and taking in the Japanese culture. Your destination, Nakatsugawa, is number 45 of the 69 post towns on the Nakasendo Way. Spend the rest of the day exploring many of the old buildings and shops that still operate today. Head out on a 3km walk from your hotel to visit the Naegi Castle ruins. You are invited to take up an optional Backstreets Walking tour of Nakatsugawa during the afternoon. On the tour an expert local guide escorts you through the town’s narrow winding streets to help you discover the myriad of well-preserved wooden buildings, residences and warehouses (kura) originally constructed during the historical Edo period. During that time the town prospered with a population of over 1000 people and around 200 houses. This is an opportunity to learn about the town’s rich history and gain an understanding of today’s village life as you encounter locals along the way. (Additional cost applies – please enquire at time of booking.)

Meals: B, D

After leaving Nakatsugawa at the ancient kosatsuba (official proclamation board) you will see the red torii gates. Expect steep slopes today before Ochiai, after which you begin walking on an old cobblestoned way. This route takes you to the entrance of Magome, one of the highlights of the Nakasendo Way. Follow the stone path into Magome. Notably, its kosatsuba features old wooden tablets stating in Japanese that: “No Christianity can be practised”. Magome is number 43 of the 69 post towns along the way to Edo (Tokyo). It is an insight into how the post towns were in the Edo period. Take time to stroll through the small shops on the main street. The Nakasendo Way continues right through the centre of Magome past these old shops and inns. The trail begins to climb up to the small touge (pass), where there is a good rest spot. You then walk over the Magome Pass (800m) and slowly descend through peaceful woodland. Listen for the roar of the Odaki-Medaki waterfalls, the sound of which slowly fades as you pass streams and rice paddies coming into the old (smaller) village of O-tsumago. Leaving O-tsumago, the trail climbs briefly before descending into the enchanting village of the main village, Tsumago (number 42 of the 69 post towns). The street is lined with traditional Japanese wooden houses, shops and ryokan (inns). Take up the opportunity to don a traditional yukata gown (provided by your inn) and stroll through the streets after dinner.

Meals: B, D

Today’s walk takes you through Nagiso and the beautiful Yogawa Forest into Nojiri where you will take the train to Kiso-Fukushima and your accommodation for the night. The trail will take you along some road sections broken up with interesting villages and scenic bamboo and cedar forest. It is quite hilly today and the Nenouetoge pass has some steep, sustained ascents and descents. A highlight are the streams and rivers running alongside the trail.

Meals: B, D

Today is free for you to explore the town of Kiso-Fukushima. This was one of the four security checkpoints during the Edo period and thus flourished as a political and economic centre in the Kiso Valley. The old-town area and along the river are great spots for a stroll and to view the distinct Edo-style buildings. Along with the Kozenji-Temple, which houses the valley’s most famous temple and the largest stone garden in Japan, the Yamamura Residence and the Fukushima Checkpoint are really worth a visit. Both museums have a wonderful collection of weapons, clothing and other artefacts that provide a great insight into the fascinating history of the time.

If you feel like exploring a little further, you may like to take a bus to Mount Ontake, one of Japan’s most sacred mountains. There is an option to take a gondola and hike to the top (from late April to early November), or perhaps you may enjoy a hike in the lowlands.

Once back in town, if you haven’t already discovered the free public footbath on the banks of the Kiso River, we definitely recommend a visit; the steaming, natural hot spring water is wonderfully soothing for tired legs and will help you feel refreshed and ready for tomorrow’s walk over the Torii Pass.

Meals: B, D

Today a leisurely start lets you spend some time in Kiso-Fukushima before catching the train to Yabuhara, where your trek resumes. By doing this we avoid the highway walking from Kiso-Fukushima. From Yabuhara, the Nakasendo Way climbs up to the Torii Pass, named after the Shinto torii gate, which marks one of four protective sites surrounding Mount Ontake. At 1197m, the Torii Pass is a great vantage point for views of Mount Ontake on a clear day. The descent takes you along narrow mountain paths until you emerge at the outskirts of Narai, the wealthiest of the post towns along the trail. Explore and relax in the cafes and shops of this well-preserved and atmospheric town.

Meals: B, D

Today you will journey by train further along the Nakasendo Way to the town of Shimosuwa. Historically, this was a resting station for travellers during the Edo period and is a fitting spot to finish your journey as it is the only hot springs district on the Nakasendo Way. As you walk through the town you can experience a number of foot baths, which is a great remedy for weary feet that have just hiked for six days along the Nakasendo Way! Continuing through Shimosuwa you will have the opportunity to visit a number of temples and shrines, with the Suwa Taisha Shrine considered to be one of the oldest shrines in Japan. It was first mentioned in Japanese literature in the 7th century. The Shinto Shrine has over 10,000 branches throughout Japan. Shimosuwa is also home to a 400-year-old castle as well as a number of hot springs (onsens), sake breweries and festivals. In summer they have a fireworks festival, while every 6 years the ancient pillar riding festival of Onbashira takes place, where locals ride a giant log down the hill (next taking place in 2022).

Meals: B, D

Your journey on the Nakasendo Way ends today after breakfast.

Meals: B

• 8 nights accommodation along the trek (traditional Japanese guest houses – shared bathroom facilities)
• Daily meals as listed in the itinerary
• Luggage transfers on all trekking days
• Briefing in Mitake at the start of your trek 
• Local and Australian emergency contact
• RAW Travel’s exclusive interactive navigation app

• Bus and train tickets
• Flights
• Travel insurance
• Drinks other than water at meals
• Expenses of personal nature 
• Lunches