Nakasendo Way - Self Guided

Please note that all ascent and descent figures listed in the itinerary are approximate only and may vary slightly depending on the route taken.

Make your way from the Nagoya train station on the Meitetsu Line to Mitake Station (80 minutes travel time). Mitake is where you will have a short briefing before you depart on your walk (meeting times will be in your travel documents). Our local RAW Travel representative will be able to recommend a local lunch spot (own expense) prior to your walk. You will begin your walk through the town and then make your way into the forest up a short hill known as the Cows Nose is Missing. This is the true beginning of your Nakasendo Way walk. Stay in the forest on this very scenic section through woodland and lush green countryside, walking on some of the original stoned paving known as ishidatami. There will be a chance to stop at La Province Café as you head towards Hosokute and your accommodation for the evening.

Ascent 445m / Descent 155m

Meals: D

Enjoy your first traditional Japanese breakfast and prepare for an exciting day following in the footsteps of the Samurai. Today you will walk over a very old section known as the 13 passes and 13 peaks. There has been no public access through here, which keeps the area completely undeveloped, save for a golf course. The original way used to go through the golf course; nowadays you will follow the boundary of the course and again you will be walking on traditional stone paths. There is even a section that has only been rediscovered in the last few years. Continuing on your way through the mountains you will come across the well-preserved post town called Okute before then travelling along the ridge tops and descending into Ena. In Ena you can visit the museum known as the Hiroshiga, which features some wonderful prints of the Nakasendo Way.

Ascent 485m / Descent 620m

Meals: B, D

Today offers a gentler and shorter walk, with undulating terrain and mostly easy road walking. You’ll pass through a mix of small towns, rural villages and sections of the city, winding your way across rice paddies, open fields and even home gardens. Along the way, take time to engage with locals and soak in the rhythms of everyday Japanese life and culture.

If you prefer to skip today’s road walking, the train from Ena to Nakatsugawa takes just 10 minutes and is a convenient alternative.

Nakatsugawa is the 45th of the 69 traditional post towns on the historic Nakasendo Way. Once you arrive, you’ll have the rest of the day to explore this charming town. Many of the old buildings and shops are still in use, offering a glimpse into its Edo-period heritage.

We highly recommend a visit to the Naegi Castle ruins. Originally built in 1526 by the Toyama clan, this mountaintop fortress sits atop Mt. Takamori. Though only ruins remain, the stone foundations and a reconstructed wooden watchtower provide a fascinating look into Sengoku-period mountain castle design. From the top, enjoy sweeping views of the Kiso River and surrounding forested hills—particularly breathtaking in autumn.

To reach Naegi Castle from the centre of Nakatsugawa, it’s about a 5.4 km walk (or taxi) along Route 257, taking around an hour. The path leads through quiet residential neighborhoods and tranquil wooded paths.

Alternatively, you may wish to book our Nakatsugawa Backstreets Tour, a guided walk led by a local (additional cost – enquire at time of booking). This immersive experience takes you through the lesser-known corners of the town, offering deeper insights into Nakatsugawa’s rich history and vibrant community.

Ascent 220m / Descent 185m

Meals: B

After leaving Nakatsugawa at the ancient Kosatsuba (official proclamation board) you will come across red torii gates just after Nakatsugawa Juku. There will be some steep slopes today before Ochiai and then you will be walking on an old cobblestoned way. It’s on this route that you will be walking up to the entrance of Magome, one of the highlights of the Nakasendo Way. Magome (Horse & Basket) is number 43 of the 69 post towns along the way to Edo (Tokyo). It truly is a reminder of how the post towns were in the Edo period (1603–1868).

The Nakasendo Way continues through the centre of Magome past the old shops and inns. The trail begins to climb up to the small settlement of Touge, and this is a good spot to take a rest break. You will then walk over the Magome Pass (800m) and slowly descend through peaceful woodland. You’ll hear the roar of the Odaki-Medaki waterfalls, which slowly fade as you pass streams and rice paddies coming into the old (smaller) village of O-Tsumago.

Leaving O-Tsumago, the trail climbs briefly before descending into the enchanting main village of Tsumago, (number 42 of the 69 post towns). The street is lined with traditional Japanese wooden houses, shops and ryokan (inns).

Ascent 767m / Descent 595m

Meals: B, D

Leaving the old town of Tsumago at the ancient Kosatsuba (official proclamation board) you will see on the board the old wooden tablets which state that no Christianity can be practised. The trail ascends steeply up the valley then continues through the forest on what is known as the Yogawa Forest Route to Nojiri, passing through cedar forests and farmland. It is one of the most scenic sections of the walk. The forest walk joins the Kiso River as you descend into Nojiri. After a late lunch in Nojiri, make your way to the train station for a 40-minute ride to Kiso-Fukushima. Located halfway on the Nakasendo Way between Kyoto and Tokyo, Kiso-Fukushima was an important checkpoint during the Edo period.

Ascent 723m / Descent 643m

Meals: B, D

**Option to add an additional night in Kiso-Fukushima if you would like to have a day free to explore this area further. (Subject to availability)

Today you will catch the train from Kiso-Fukushima to Yabuhara and start your final day’s walk of the Nakasendo Way, hiking up to the Torii Pass, named after the Shinto Torii Gate, which marks one of four protective sites surrounding Mount Ontake. At 1197m, the Torii Pass is a great vantage point for views of Mount Ontake on a clear day. The descent takes you along narrow mountain paths until you emerge at the outskirts of Narai, a lovely post town and the wealthiest of the post towns along the trail. Explore and relax in the cafes and shops of this well-preserved and atmospheric town.

Please note that depending on availability, your accommodation for tonight may be in Narai, Kiso Fukushima or Matsumoto.

Ascent 344m / Descent 270m

Meals: B, D

Today is departure day. After your traditional Japanese breakfast, you can take the train to your next destination.

Meals: B

24kg of CO2-e per person per day

We pay for a monthly offset to cover the estimated emissions of our walkers for all trips with RAW Travel, which goes into local reforestation or biodiversity restoration. Explore the practical actions behind these estimated carbon offsets for your trip here, following a philosophy of ‘re-wilding the planet’ with native tree planting & Ocean plastic cleans ups.

A reasonable estimate for a pilgrim is 24 kg of CO2-e per person per day, primarily due to hotels, meals and emissions from luggage transfers. The act of walking itself is a form of sustainable travel, so the carbon footprint calculated here is a measure of the ancillary activities surrounding the walk, not the walking itself. The figures are estimates, not precise measurements for each route/trip, as it’s difficult to provide an exact number without detailed data on specific hotels, menus, and transfer routes which vary from person to person. This figure represents the operational footprint of the hike and its included services only. It does not include the flights and other transport needed to get to the start and finish of the walk.

An individual can significantly influence their footprint with the varied choices they make around food and drink at each meal. For instance, a diet rich in meat, imported goods and alcohol, will have a much higher impact than one focused on local, seasonal, and plant-based options. This daily stated figure is an average across all days of the pilgrimage, derived from the key consumption components listed below.

This daily figure is an average across the duration of the walk and includes the following key components:

Carbon Footprint Breakdown

• 6 nights in traditional Japanese guesthouses/inns (ryokan)
• Daily meals (as listed in the itinerary)
• Luggage transfers on your hiking days
• Pre-tour briefing in Mitake
• RAW Travel’s exclusive interactive navigation app
• Local and Australian emergency contacts
• Carbon offset for your trip and a native tree planted for every walker

• Single supplement – ask for a quote if you would like a single room
• Flights
• Local bus and train tickets
• Travel to Mitake from Nagoya Station
• Travel insurance
• Beverages other than water at meals
• Expenses and items of a personal nature
• Lunches on all days (we have recommended places to eat)

The total length of the trail is 86km. Most travellers can comfortably cover this distance in a week. 

This walk is moderately challenging, with varying terrain that includes paved paths, forest trails and stone-paved streets. Daily walking distances range from 8km to 21km, and there are inclines that can be taken at a comfortable pace. The highest point on the trail is the Torii Pass (1197m) when you are walking between Yabuhara and Narai. 

 Also read: 

• What fitness level do you need for hiking in Japan?
• Guide to Nakasendo trail

Travelling self-guided allows you to walk from place to place progressing from one accommodation to the next in your own time. Luggage transfers are included on all walking days, meaning you only carry a daypack.

The great part about self-guided travel is that you can choose your own travel dates (dependent on the availability of accommodation of course) and itineraries can be custom made to suit your particular travel wishes and needs.

On the Nakasendo Way you won’t need advanced orienteering skills but you should be comfortable referring to route notes and independently navigating your way along this rural trail. Our app can pinpoint and confirm whether you’re still on the correct trail (if you have doubts) but you will still need to use problem-solving skills, be adaptable, and have a keen eye to find your way.

The Nakasendo Way can be walked year-round, but the most popular seasons are spring (March–May), when cherry blossoms bloom and temperatures sit around 10–20°C, and autumn (October–November), when the forests turn vibrant with autumn colours. 

Summer (June–August) offers lush green scenery and long daylight hours, but also brings heat, humidity, heavy rain, and occasional typhoons. Winter (December–February) can bring snow and shorter days, so it’s best suited to experienced walkers, and some accommodations close over the holiday period.

On the Nakasendo Way you can expect to stay in family run guesthouses and ryokans (traditional Japanese style inns) and small hotels. The places we choose are authentic, atmospheric and filled with character, plus they offer a great opportunity to meet the local people. 

Most rooms are Japanese style, with straw tatami mats used for flooring. Guests sleep on futons, which are spread on tatami mats at night and stored folded in a closet during the day.

Some accommodations will have air-conditioning, others will have free-standing fans. Along the trail some accommodations offer  an onsen (hot spring bath), which is part of your Japanese experience.

Read more: Your ultimate guide to Japanese onsens

If you are walking only the Nakasendo Way, you can fly into the international airport at Nagoya (approx. 11⁄2 hours from the start of the walk at Mitake). Alternatively you can fly into Tokyo and catch the train to Nagoya. If you are planning other travels in Japan, Tokyo’s Narita airport or Osaka’s Kansai airport are your best options. 

Mitake is the starting point for our self-guided itinerary, and you can access it by train from Nagoya on the Meitetsu line. The journey will take you approximately 1 hour 15 minutes and you will need to change trains at least once. Directions to get to Mitake will be provided in your pre-departure details.

Individual local train tickets cannot be purchased outside of Japan and are not included in the trip cost. For the most up to date information on public transport and fares in Japan, check Japan transit planner.

Meals along the Nakasendo Way are a highlight of the experience. Dinner and breakfast are included and served at guesthouses, usually as multi-course meals showcasing fresh, locally grown produce. Expect traditional Japanese dishes that are beautifully prepared and very filling. It’s important to note that alternatives are not available if you don’t enjoy Japanese food.

Lunch is not included, but you’ll find plenty of options in towns you pass through, where sampling local specialties is part of the adventure. Some accommodations also offer packed lunches. Snacks are easy to find in small shops along the way, from rice crackers and wasabi peas to Pocky sticks, or you can bring your own sealed favourites from home. 

Tap water is safe to drink in Japan, and meals are typically served with green tea, with sake and beer available for purchase at guesthouses.

Currently Australians and New Zealanders only need a valid passport and a return ticket to enter Japan as a tourist for stays of no more than 90 days. Visitors are stamped in on arrival at the airport. All travellers must have a minimum of 6 months validity (after their date of return into Australia) on their passport. Please confirm these requirements with your chosen airline.

Bears inhabit some forested areas that you will walk through. It is very rare to see a bear; however, we recommend in certain sections, where you come across yellow signs with drawings of black bears on them, that you ring the large brass bear bells to make the bears aware you are there. Japan has two bear species, the Asiatic black bear and the
Ezo brown bear, but any bear in these forests would be the black bear.

In addition to different itineraries on the Nakasendo Way, we also offer walks on the ancient Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail and the Michinoku Coastal Trail, as well as an exceptional guided trip on Okinawa Island. If you’re looking for cycling trips, check out the scenic Shimanami Kaido cycling route, spanning the islands of the Seto Inland Sea. You can also choose a Japan extension to complement any of our hiking and cycling trips.

Also read: Hiking in Japan – Kumano Kodo or Nakasendo Way?