Hiking Japan’s Ancient Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Trail

By Cath Wallis

Some journeys are about landscapes, others about history – and sometimes, if you’re lucky, they’re about both. My daughter and I set out on Japan’s Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail, and it turned into a walk I’ll never forget. We chose my favourite type of tour: a supported independent hike. The logistics were taken care of by RAW Travel – our luggage transported from guesthouse to guesthouse – while we were free to hike at our own pace, stop for photos, and linger wherever the trail called to us. Best of all, I was walking with my eldest daughter. Sharing this journey felt like more than just a hike; it was a chance to grow into a new, more adult relationship together.

Getting there: from Osaka to Kii-Tanabe

Our journey began with a train ride south from Osaka to Kii-Tanabe, where we collected our information packs from the friendly visitor centre. Just down the road we checked into Ichie Café, a small and welcoming guesthouse. Handwritten notes from our hosts greeted us with such warmth – it instantly set the tone for the days ahead. Dinner at Akihei in Tanabe was another highlight, with a beautifully prepared meal that nourished both body and spirit before our pilgrimage began.

Day 1: Takajiri to Takahara (and beyond)

The Nakahechi Trail is the most popular section of the Kumano Kodo, and we began at Takajiri after stamping our pilgrimage booklets for the very first time. From there, the climb began – and didn’t seem to stop! Our guidebook casually mentioned a “steep climb to Takahara,” but in truth it was a 3km ascent that took me a crazy 2.5 hours. At one point I wondered if I’d make it to our guesthouse before dark. After a picnic lunch overlooking the most stunning rice paddies, and a refreshing cup of organic plum juice from a local vendor, the trail levelled out. The remaining 12km passed through mossy forests, waterfalls, shrines, and tiny villages. By late afternoon, we’d covered 15km with over 1000m of elevation gain – a tough but achievable day.

We stayed at a small family-run guesthouse, called a ryokan. The meal alone would have been enough to make it unforgettable – dish after dish of home-cooked Japanese food, prepared with such care and flavour that every bite felt like a celebration of the region, and washed down with the owner’s favourite sake. But it was what came after dinner that turned the evening into magic. Our host quietly invited us to follow her down the road to the riverbank, to search for fireflies. At first they were hard to spot, but then – suddenly – one or two tiny sparks appeared, flickering against the darkness. Fragile and fleeting, those little lights felt all the more special for being elusive, like a secret gift we were lucky enough to receive.

Day 2: Into Hongu Taisha

Our second morning began in gentle rain, but was quickly caught by the forest canopy, and within minutes my rain jacket was tucked away. The trail was varied – steep climbs, long descents, bubbling streams and verdant ferns, bursts of flowers in village gardens. We took our time stamping our booklets and enjoying snacks, and before I realised it, the day’s walk was behind us. Entering Hongu Taisha from the path at the back felt surreal – like stepping through the tradesman’s entrance of a sacred world. I felt strangely self-conscious, sweaty and smelly after a day of hiking. It didn’t feel right to step into such a sacred place in that state, so I waited until the next day to visit – clean, refreshed, ready to give it the reverence it deserved. Completing a 2-day walk into Hongu is considered completing the Kumano pilgrimage. Many hikers extend their journeys by combining different routes, but this traditional 2-day path remains the heart of the experience.

Our first onsen

On our rest day we stayed at a hotel built right beside the river, a favourite getaway spot for Japanese tourists on spa holidays. The onsen here was the highlight – natural hot spring pools dug into the riverbank itself, steaming gently in the cool mountain air. Guests changed into yukata before heading down to the baths, where you could choose between two pools at different temperatures, just metres from the river itself. It was the perfect way to spend a non-hiking day: soaking tired muscles, watching the river slide past, and sharing the experience with families and holidaymakers who had come here simply to relax. It felt like stepping into a cherished local tradition, one that refreshed both body and spirit.

From river to waterfall

From Hongu, we continued our pilgrimage in a traditional style – by boat. Gliding along the Kumano-gawa river with a guide, flute music drifting in the air, and even a rock scramble mid-journey, it was a gorgeous way to connect with centuries of history. Our journey came to a symbolic end at Hayatama Taisha Shrine in Shingu. This vibrant vermilion shrine is one of the three Grand Shrines of Kumano and an important part of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage.

Our final destination was Nachisan, home to the striking red pagoda and the thundering Nachi waterfall – the most iconic sight of the Kii Mountains. Staying overnight in the only guesthouse in town meant we had this sacred landscape almost to ourselves once the day-trippers departed.

Reflections on the Kumano Kodo

Walking the Kumano Kodo was both challenging and deeply rewarding. Every shrine, moss-covered path, and quiet mountain village carried the weight of history. To walk this route with my daughter made it even more meaningful – a shared pilgrimage I’ll never forget. If you’re seeking a hike that blends natural beauty, cultural depth and personal reflection, the Kumano Kodo should be high on your list. Just be ready for those climbs – you’ll earn every breathtaking view. Thank you, RAW Travel, for such an amazing trip!

About this article

This article was written by Canberra-based adventurer Cath Wallis, who completed our 6-day Kumano Kodo Highlights Trip as part of her prize for winning our Hike the World competition. Cath has also walked and written about Western Australia’s legendary Cape to Cape Track. 

You can follow her adventures on instagram: @cath.wallis

All text and photos © Cath Wallis.