Exploring France’s beautiful Loire Valley by e-bike

We are cycling in the Loire Valley in central France following a meandering path from west to east alongside the course of the majestic Loire River, which for thousands of years has been the lifeblood of this region. We are about 2.5 hours south-west of Paris. This celebrated cycle path was formally completed in 1995 and links most of the Loire Valley’s many attractions. This valley is a UNESCO World Heritage site, knowns for its many historic and picturesque villages, wonderful and sumptuous chateaux, and cultural and historical significance. We caught a train from Paris to Tours (the gateway city of the Loire Valley), which is about halfway through the classic 800km cycle, and we are cycling through to Nantes close to the Atlantic coast. Summer is palpable, but not in the stifling, intense way I am used to in Australia. There is a delightful mellowness here.

The Loire River is France’s longest, and many towns and cities used it as a trade route. On this route, it flows from Nevers to Orléans then west through Tours and Nantes until it reaches the Bay of Biscay. It is vast in places and criss-crossed by historic bridges. Islands have formed along its course, with a mix of agricultural lands and forests along its banks. The Loire River was used by the Romans and Vikings amongst others, and once designated the border between France and England during the medieval Hundred Years’ War. The Valley was ruled by the French monarchy giving its name the “Valley of the Kings”.

The history is fascinating and accessible as we follow the path and stories of medieval conquests through the many fairytale chateaux, forts, abbeys and castles for which this region is famous. Some of the gardens in the vast grounds of these spectacular chateaux are manicured to perfection, others are rambling and rustic – all stunning! These and the cities en route are the only times we see a lot of people but not in that super busy kind of way. Most of the time we are traversing stunning countryside and quiet villages, stopping when something takes our fancy, which it does often! There’s a lot to see and do and it’s wonderful to participate on our e-bikes rather than being a spectator through a car or bus window.

We set off eagerly each morning around 9am after a good rest and delicious breakfast of pastries, local fruits, yoghurts, juice and coffee. Our electric bikes are excellently equipped and comfortable. We cover around 50km each day. The bikes have roomy panniers, comfortable broad seats, all the tools and kit we might need, and enough power to take us through every day with heaps to spare. Along the trails we visit the sights, as well as also seasonal markets, boulangeries and patisseries. We pack our waterproof and panniers full of pastries, cheeses, bread and local fruit along with a picnic rug and what we will need for the day. The berries don’t always travel so well, but they are too enticing to miss – we usually smell them before we see them! 

The bikes have more than enough power to effortlessly carry us up a medieval street or to a vantage point to gaze at the agricultural valleys we traverse. We often stop along the way for a riverside café au lait or diabolo and watch the world go by. More than once, we snooze in the midday sun by the river. The days are long, the weather mild and there is no rush to be anywhere in a hurry. Our relaxed pace matches the environment we are meandering through. There are more than enough picnic tables or open green spaces and small cafes to stop at along the way.

The path is mostly flat and we sometimes follow small and quiet dirt or paved roads or cycle paths through farming country alongside fields of corn and wheat swaying in the breeze. The verge of the path in early summer is often blanketed in thick wildflowers of every description and it’s a scene of lush green. The forests are a good few degrees cooler, sheltered from the sun and wind alike. The insects hum, the breeze is warm and, with flowers everywhere, the aroma is divine. There are many birds here along the river and often all we can hear is their song and chatter. I had expected it to be drier and browner in June, but there has been recent rain, which causes the sometimes vast river to run fast and, in particular areas, overflow its banks onto the path we are cycling (usually most of the significant rain occurs in early spring). Not many of the typical boats are in action at the moment, but we regularly see them secured against the water’s edge.

The path is well marked with La Loire à Vélo / EuroVelo 6. There are great options for side trips, and you are never too far from a village. (You just need a bit of navigational know-how if you want to go significantly off the course provided by our app.) It’s amazing how a village can be so small but always have a place where you can purchase the most delicious array of mouth-watering cakes and pastries if you’re there fairly early – this (and eating them) would become a highlight of our days. The residents, other cyclists and motorists are friendly and forgiving, and there are plenty of places to secure your bike, often at the heart of the village alongside the church and the local shops. The well-preserved historic villages here are pretty and the homes are usually made of stone with tiled roofs. There are delightful meandering cobblestone streets and the villages often feel and smell like a fairytale garden.  

We are never in a rush and when we finish each day we stow and lock our e-bikes and either recharge our batteries in the storage area or detach the battery and take it to our room (unless we are cycling out later for a meal). We’ve stayed in a wonderful range of diverse, well located and comfortable accommodation. Some are personal, small and unique, while others are more refined with all the comforts – all great and appreciated for different reasons. Mostly we are staying in villages or cities and at their heart they have ancient cathedrals, atmospheric medieval cobblestone streets and vibrant town squares where locals and travellers alike gather to enjoy the long twilight, a slow drink and delicious cuisine. A couple of the places have had swimming pools. My favourite accommodation was built into a historic troglodyte farm of grapevine growers where the rooms and quaint breakfast area were in renovated caves carved into the limestone.

After a shower, we usually head out in search of the most vibrant village square and order a local dry white wine or beer to be enjoyed with the locals before choosing where to eat our evening meal. This region is renowned for its white Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc and red Cabernet Franc. Throughout some days, we scoot alongside historic roadside cellars built into caves dotting the roadside. Sometimes we make a booking in the smaller villages and sometimes we just turn up, but we usually eat between 7 and 8pm. We sample the classic salads (Caesar and Nicoise), galettes and crêpes or we opt for classic French restaurant meals. Fresh fish from the Loire is often on the menu. Whenever we eat, we are met with friendly smiles. We try to speak French an are often met with bemused smiles. Each night we do a quick and often amusing Duo Lingo French session. I can, however, do without reciting “I am a cat” in French ever again!

Each day is a little different as the scenery changes, and every day brings a wonderful sense of discovery and deeper relaxation. There is nothing too challenging about this cycling route, which makes for a relaxing rather than thrilling ride in all the good ways. The terrain and paths are great, the bikes are great, the food options are great, the villages are great, the locals are great, the weather is great and there’s so much to see and do. I would come back and do this again in a heartbeat!

Visiting the majestic Châteaux of the Loire Valley

There are around 300 chateaux in the Loire Valley to visit, where you can immerse yourself in history and folklore. Many were built, owned or frequented by legendary historical figures and often house vast and stunning artworks, artefacts and gardens. The three below are our favourites.

Château de Villandry
Built in the Renaissance style as a country house in Villandry, this chateau has vast perfectly manicured gardens originating from the 14th century.

Le Chateau d’Usse
Originating as a fort and then a castle in the 14th century, this was the inspiration for the tale of Sleeping Beauty.

Château de Chenonceau
Spanning across the river Cher, this chateau was built in the 15th century and has magnificent building, gardens and a cafe on site.

Our top tips for cycling the Loire Valley

1. Sightseeing Allow enough time for side trips and sightseeing. There are a plethora of majestic or mysterious buildings and villages that will arouse your curiosity and are worthy of a stop along the way.
2. Water Always make sure you carry water, but don’t worry too much as you can drink the local water and there are usually places to stop along the way.
3. Old towns Get to the heart of the old town or city by following the cathedral spire or church bells and be prepared for a bit of bumpy riding in narrow cobblestone streets.
4. Bottle opener Take or purchase a bottle opener. Wine in France, for the most part, is corked if you plan on more than a restaurant glass.
5. Closing times Be aware that in smaller villages, some places may be closed in the middle of the day (lunch is the main meal of the day in France).
6. Market Visit at least one market. The ambience, food quality and variety is sensational. We loved the Tours market for its local produce, cheeses and pastries. Your bike panniers allow for plenty of indulgences.
7. Hay fever If you get hay fever, consider travelling at a time when the blossom/flowers are not in full force – or carry the medication you would use at home.
8. Tours train stations If you are commencing your trip in Tours, you will most likely need to get off at the Central Gare de Tours (there are two train stations).
9. Bicycle bell Use your bell as a courtesy to let others know you are approaching. You will be sharing paths with other cyclists, picnickers and walkers.
10. Training Do some training before you go to get used to traffic and being in the saddle. You still require fitness and to being able to handle a bike on roads and in cities. Traffic is on the right-hand side of the road and this takes a little getting used to.
11. Bike battery The bike battery life will vary according to your weight and how often you are on a top speed setting. Plan not to run out by fully charging your battery each day.
12. Ordering meat If you are ordering steak or even burgers and prefer this medium rare, ask for “medium”. The French norm is for meat to be cooked less than what is typical in Australia and a burger will often be very pink.
13. Learn some French Knowing some basic words and phrases will help you get to know the locals and when you are ordering meals or asking for directions. We found the locals in the Loire cities and villages very accommodating, helpful and friendly.
14. Carry cash Electronic payment is accepted in most places but carry some small change so you can tip for great service.
15. Less lycra Not many of the European cyclists we met on this trail were wearing full lycra cycling  kit. You may feel under-dressed / conspicuous in some of the grand chateaux in tight lycra.

About our E-bike tours