Ultimate Guide to finding food on the Le Puy Camino

One of the most common questions I receive from travellers interested in walking the Le Puy route – also known as the Via Podiensis or GR 65 – is: “I heard it’s hard to find food?” And honestly, it’s a fair concern. When you’re about to take on a journey that demands serious calories to fuel long days of walking, eating well isn’t a luxury – it’s survival.

There’s also a misconception about pilgrims going hungry on the trail, unable to find food. Let me put that worry to rest. As a tour guide in France for over 7 years, and someone who’s spent countless days, weeks, and sometimes months on long-distance bike rides and hiking adventures across the French countryside, I can tell you this: One of the greatest joys of these trips – besides the views and the sense of freedom – is the guilt-free indulgence in every delicious thing that crosses your path. You’re not snacking, you’re fuelling!

Sure, I may have stretched the definition of “fuel” at times, but come on – this is France. A country known not just for chic Parisians sipping espresso while smoking cigarettes and staring pensively at the Eiffel Tower, saying things like “ooooooui” or “meh nooooo!” – but for food. Glorious, delicious, indulgent, regionally rooted, soul-satisfying food!

In this guide, I’ll cover everything you need to know to eat confidently (and well) on your journey on the Le Puy, from local dining etiquette and typical meal times to average costs and helpful tips to keep you well-fed. My promise to you: I will quell your fear of going hungry and replace it with excitement about all the incredible food waiting to be consumed!

French dining 101: The Basics you really need to know

Let’s start with some fundamental rules so that you’re not caught off guard when your first meal in France doesn’t go quite like the one back home.

Rule #1: The customer is always wrong

Okay, okay – I’m joking (sort of). While the old saying “The customer is always right” might hold in other countries, in France, dining is less about service speed and more about the experience. The food, the setting, the company – it all matters. You’re not just eating; you’re participating in a cultural ritual.

French dining is about savouring, not rushing. Meals are meant to be enjoyed, not inhaled. This can be a bit of a culture shock for hikers on the go used to fast-paced service, takeaway coffee, doggy bags, or waiters checking in every five minutes. In France, if the waiter isn’t hovering, it’s not bad service – it’s simply respect for your space and time.

Takeaways: At sit-down restaurants, expect the service to be slower, as dining is more about the experience than speed. If you’re craving something quicker, cafés, bars, boulangeries and supermarkets are great alternatives for a fast-paced bite.

Rule #2: It’s not c’est bien, IT’S C’EST BON!

A little French goes a long way. You don’t need to be fluent to survive (or eat well) in France, but making the effort to speak even a few words can make a world of difference. Most French people truly appreciate when visitors try to speak the language – it’s a sign of respect and often leads to a warmer welcome.

Keep in mind that the Le Puy route winds through rural France, where many locals may not speak much English – especially in smaller villages or among older generations. But isn’t that exactly what we’re looking for? An authentic experience, stepping into a world that’s a bit unknown. Meeting locals halfway with a few key phrases can make your dining experience smoother, friendlier, and a lot more fun!

Here are some essential phrases to have in your dining toolkit:

A helpful tip! Three months before your departure, start practicing with Duolingo. This app is super easy and user-friendly, making it a fun way to get comfortable with speaking French before your trip!

Navigating French menus (without the English version) In some French restaurants, you may find menus in French only. Don’t worry – this is part of the charm! For moments like these, the Google Translate app is a lifesaver. Simply snap a picture of the menu, and voilà, you’ll have a quick translation to help guide your choices.

Rule #3: The French eat when they’re ready – Not when you’re hungry

The title says it all: French eating patterns follow a strict and predictable schedule. Unlike the Camino Francés, which receives around half a million pilgrims annually, the Le Puy route (Via Podiensis) sees around 25,000 to 30,000 pilgrims each year, and the towns it passes through are not always centred around the needs of pilgrims. This means services can be limited between towns, and restaurants and cafés operate on local time, not trail time. So, if you miss a mealtime while walking, you may have to wait until the next one.

To avoid getting “hangry,” plan ahead and try to eat during these typical French mealtimes, or better yet, stash a baguette, dried sausage and a block of cheese in your pack for those moments you need a snack.

🥐 Breakfast (Le petit déjeuner): 7–9 am

A light start to the day – expect coffee, a croissant, cereal, yogurt and oats or tartines (baguette slices with butter and jam). Hard-boiled eggs and cheese are sometimes common on the breakfast table.

Typical cost: On RAW Travel trips, breakfast will be provided at your accommodation, so you can fuel up before hitting the trail. But don’t let that stop you from having a second or third breakfast every time you pass a boulangerie. Fresh croissants are a true delight in France and a very affordable hiking snack!

🍽️ Lunch (Le déjeuner): 12 noon–2pm

Lunch is typically served around noon, and many businesses, including grocery stores and pharmacies, may close during this time, so it’s best to plan ahead. You can enjoy a sit-down meal at a local restaurant or cafe or grab something on the go, like a sandwich or quiche from a boulangerie, often with a dessert and drink. Alternatively, hikers can pick up picnic supplies at a supermarket or specialty shops, such as fresh fruit, local cheeses, cured meats, and baguettes, for an authentic French picnic experience.

Typical cost: Expect to spend between €10 to €15 for a simple sandwich, quiche, or salad. For a casual restaurant between €15 to €25. 

🍷 Dinner (Le dîner): 6.30–9.30pm

Dinner in France can be later than many travelers are used to, but it’s definitely worth the wait. Dinner often includes multiple courses and is a time to relax and savor the evening. Meal options may be available at your accommodation or in town close by. 

Typical cost: Expect to spend between €15 to €25 at a casual restaurant, and up to €30 or more for a more elaborate meal with wine.

Plan ahead for stress-free dining: When you book with RAW Travel, you’ll receive your accommodation details 4 weeks before departure, giving you ample time to research and plan your dining options. By knowing what’s available, you can avoid surprises and enjoy your day’s walk knowing your dinner options in advance. In larger towns with more options, planning ahead may not be necessary. Some hotels where you will be staying may provide a dinner option. If this is not available you can always ask the host for local recommendations. Et voilà! More time to enjoy, less time worrying.

Ready to live your best baguette life?

Picture this: as you’re walking along the trail, you stumble upon a charming French village on market day. You weave through vibrant food stalls, savouring local delicacies and practicing your French. Suddenly, you forget you’ve still got 25km to go – now you’re Juliette Binoche in the movie Chocolat, dreaming up your next chocolate creation as you await Johnny Depp’s entrance on his pirate ship!

But let’s refocus on food along the Le Puy trail, shall we?

Local markets are one of the best ways to immerse yourself in rural French culture. They offer the perfect chance to taste regional specialties, pick up trail snacks or a picnic lunch, and even plan a charming apéro-dîner in front of your hotel – sunset, local wine, and Johnny Depp….Ooh là là! – I mean, cheese! 

A few notable markets along the route:

• Le Puy-en-Velay – Saturday mornings
• Saugues – Friday mornings
• Aumont-Aubrac – Friday mornings
• Saint-Chély-d’Aubrac – Summer Thursday evenings
• Espalion: Friday mornings
• Figeac: Sunday Mornings 
• Cahors: Wednesday & Saturday mornings
• Moissac: Saturday mornings
• Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port: Monday mornings

Suggested resource for market days: Jours-de-Marché.fr – French market schedules can vary by season, so always double-check with local tourist offices or online. The Jours-de-Marché site lets you search by town for up-to-date times, market types, and seasonal info.

Water: Is it food? Well, technically, no, but it’s just as important!

While food is obviously a key part of your journey, staying hydrated is crucial, too. Thankfully, potable water is abundant along the Le Puy route. France boasts a variety of natural springs and mineral-rich aquifers that contribute to its high-quality water supply. A good rule of thumb is to refill your water bottle whenever possible – even if it’s not totally empty.

For extra help, check out the FreeTaps app, which can point you toward nearby water sources.

Fun fact! Did you know French cemeteries are often a reliable spot for drinkable water? People often leave flowers and fill containers with water, so it can be an unexpected but dependable place to quench your thirst. So, next time you pass a graveyard, take a look for the tap – it might just save the day!

“Croissants, cheese, and wine, oh my!”

Personally, some of my most memorable dining experiences while travelling through France haven’t been at fine dining restaurants or typical eateries. One of the best things about a RAW Travel self-guided trip is the freedom it gives you – eat what you like, when you like, and spend as much or as little as you want. Along the Le Puy trail, regional specialties await at every turn. Don’t hesitate to wander off the beaten path – follow a sign to a local wine cave for a spontaneous tasting, grab fresh cheese from a nearby dairy farm, or enjoy a cafe noisette (my favourite coffee order) at a quaint café before the final stretch to your hotel. This isn’t a race – it’s a beautiful journey full of culinary discoveries. And when in doubt, indulge in the classic French delights!

If you enjoyed this and found it informative, be sure to check out our companion article titled What to eat along the Le Puy Camino for even more delicious insights into the regional specialties you’ll encounter along your journey. 

Bon appétit – and Bon chemin!