Camino Primitivo

The Camino Primitivo is one of the oldest pilgrimage routes of the Camino de Santiago, a network of paths leading to Santiago de Compostela in the northwest of Spain. This historic trail begins in Oviedo, the capital of the region of Asturias, and travels westward through the mountainous and scenic landscapes of both Asturias and Galicia. After crossing these regions, the Camino Primitivo eventually joins the Camino Francés at Melide, before continuing toward Santiago.

Walking the full length of the Camino Primitvo from Oviedo to Santiago (320km) takes about 18 days. Many people choose to walk shorter stages / sections of 9 to 12 days. If you don’t see the exact trip you’re looking for then consider a customised trip, individually tailored to your ideal walking distances, timeframe and rest days.

The Camino Primitivo sees an estimated 5,000 to 10,000 pilgrims annually, a much smaller number compared to the half a million who walk the Camino Francés each year. Due to its more remote and challenging nature, the Primitivo attracts pilgrims seeking a solitary and reflective experience. The route is less commercialised, meaning you’ll encounter fewer people, making for a more peaceful journey. However, in larger towns like Oviedo or Melide, where the Primitivo intersects with other Caminos, you may encounter more pilgrims.

The Camino Primitivo is best suited for experienced hikers or pilgrims in good physical condition, who are comfortable with a simpler, more rustic journey. It’s not the best choice for first-time pilgrims or those new to hiking. The challenging terrain, long daily distances, remote sections, and limited services can make it tough for beginners. If this is your first Camino, we strongly recommend the Camino Francés, which is more popular and offers better infrastructure, more social interaction, and services along the way.

Hikers on the Camino del Norte can choose to transition to the Camino Primitivo after Gijón, as they head inland toward Oviedo, where the Primitivo officially begins. This option allows pilgrims to experience both the coastal route of the Norte and the more challenging, historic path of the Primitivo, which takes them through the rugged landscapes of Asturias and Galicia on the way to Santiago de Compostela.

The Camino Primitivo is generally more difficult than the Camino del Norte due to its challenging terrain and fewer services. The Primitivo features steeper ascents and remote stretches through the mountains of Asturias and Galicia, making it physically demanding. In contrast, the Camino del Norte has more gradual climbs and more towns and services along the way, making it less strenuous in comparison. The lack of facilities and tougher terrain truly sets the Primitivo apart.

The answer depends on your previous hiking experience. A section such as Lugo to Santiago is a great entry point for first time solo hikers, while the stretch from Oviedo to Lugo is better suited for those with extensive solo hiking experience. In general we would not recommend it as your first solo hike. Before tackling this more remote path, it’s advisable to gain experience on other trails with more infrastructure. 

As a self-guided route, the Primitivo requires a higher level of independence and self-sufficiency, with rugged terrain and fewer facilities. It is also more isolated, with some sections passing through remote areas, leading to extended periods of solitude. If you enjoy solitude and have the necessary experience, it can be a safe and deeply fulfilling journey. However, if you’re looking for less preparation and more social interaction along the way, this is not the ideal trail.

For solo travellers on more remote trails, we always recommend the following tips:

• Stay connected: Keep your phone fully charged and share your itinerary and daily updates with friends or family.
• Walk during daylight hours: Start your walk early enough to avoid being out after dark.
• Stay on well-marked paths: Stick to the trail to ensure you don’t get lost in more remote areas.
• Be prepared: Have the necessary gear for any weather condition and carrying sufficient water, snacks, and a basic first aid kit.

As RAW Travel will be organising your services, we are always aware of your hiking schedule. Our staff in Spain oversees our hikers on the ground and is available for assistance in case of emergencies. 

For added consideration, we suggest carrying an EPIRB (Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon).

The Camino Primitivo season starts 15 April and finishes on 15 October each year, so your Camino Primitivo trip must fall within this period.

The months of June through to September are the preferred times to walk the Camino Primitivo. These months offer plenty of daylight walking hours and usually offer nice weather, although it can be humid in the warmer months and with some summer storms. Late May (Spring) and early October (Autumn) are also good options for hikers with milder temperatures, however there are more chances of rainy days and colder conditions.

It’s important to note that this region of Spain is known for its lush, green landscapes, thanks to the foggy, misty mornings and the considerable amount of rain it receives. While the summer months generally offer a better chance of drier weather, rain should still be expected during your trip. It’s essential to pack the right wet weather gear to stay comfortable and prepared.

The closest international airports to Lugo and Oviedo are Santiago de Compostela Airport (SCQ) and Asturias Airport (OVD). Santiago de Compostela, about 1.5 to 2 hours from Lugo, offers the most convenient international connections. For Oviedo, Asturias Airport, just 40 minutes away, is the closest, though it has more limited international flights. Alternatively, Madrid International Airport (MAD), about 4-5 hours from Oviedo and 6-7 hours from Lugo. Routes to both cities from Madrid typically require a transfer in A Coruña or Ourense.

Guests are welcome to check schedules and book their own train tickets directly via the RAIL EUROPE or Spanish Railways (RENFE) websites. Additionally, for bus travel, you may consider companies like ALSA, FlixBus and Arriva. Tickets cannot usually be booked until around 90 to 60 days prior to travel. 

The Camino Primitivo is a largely rural route, and outside the major cities like Oviedo and Lugo, it can be challenging to find taxis and buses. There is no direct train line that follows the entire Camino Primitivo, so most travellers rely on buses and other local transport options. Bus schedules for the route can typically be found through regional bus services like ALSA and Arriva.

Outside larger urban areas, taxis can be difficult to locate. It’s a good idea to ask your accommodation host or local businesses, such as restaurants and cafes, if they can recommend a taxi service. When using taxis, it’s always a good idea to confirm the fare before starting your journey and to clarify which payment methods are accepted, as many Spanish taxis still prefer cash.

Note: Not all roads are close to the Camino Primitivo trail, so it’s important to check timetables and planned stops in advance, especially if you plan to skip ahead to a specific town or reduce your walking distance for the day. Local bus schedules are particularly useful for this type of travel planning.

The Camino Primitivo requires an adventurous spirit, as it offers a more remote and rugged experience compared to other Camino routes. Hikers should be aware that lodging along the Camino Primitivo, especially between larger cities, is limited and often modest. Unlike more commercialised routes, services and accommodations are less frequent and simpler, so it’s important to manage expectations. Flexibility is key, as availability may vary. In some towns, there may only be one to two options for lodging, and it may not always be possible to confirm a specific location for a requested date in advance. If we’re unable to secure lodging at the requested location, we will arrange alternative accommodations and provide taxi or transfer services to and from the trail. Additionally, not all accommodations are located directly on the Camino or within the towns, so some extra travel may be necessary. However, we will always arrange accommodations in private rooms with private bathrooms for added comfort.

While much of the Primitivo route is clearly marked, there are parts where signage can be confusing or unclear. In these sections hikers should be comfortable navigating using a combination of the RAW Travel App, guidebook, and basic orienteering skills. 

You will need to come prepared. The Camino Primitivo has limited services, and essentials like gear shops, and access to food and water can be sparse, especially in the more remote stretches. It’s crucial to carry sufficient supplies, including water, snacks, first aid kit, walking sticks, and waterproof gear, to ensure you’re properly equipped for the journey. This is especially important in the isolated sections of the trail, where services may not be as frequent or easily accessible. Proper preparation will help you navigate the more rugged and remote areas with confidence and ensure a safer, more enjoyable experience.

See more information in our Camino Walk Training Guide.

RAW Travel does not offer cycling itineraries on the Camino Primitivo.