The Highlights Trip

Arrive at your starting point in Nakatsugawa, which is number 45 of the 69 post towns on the Nakasendo Way. Spend the rest of the day exploring many of the old buildings and shops that still operate today. Head out on a 3km walk from your hotel to visit the Naegi Castle ruins. You are invited to take up an optional Backstreets Walking tour of Nakatsugawa during the afternoon. On the tour an expert local guide escorts you through the town’s narrow winding streets to help you discover the myriad of well-preserved wooden buildings, residences and warehouses (kura) originally constructed during the historical Edo period. During that time the town prospered with a population of over 1000 people and around 200 houses. This is an opportunity to learn about the town’s rich history and gain an understanding of today’s village life as you encounter locals along the way. (Additional cost applies – please enquire at time of booking.)

Meals: D

After leaving Nakatsugawa at the ancient kosatsuba (official proclamation board) you will see the red torii gates. Expect steep slopes today before Ochiai, after which you begin walking on an old cobblestoned way. This route takes you to the entrance of Magome, one of the highlights of the Nakasendo Way. Follow the stone path into Magome. Notably, its kosatsuba features old wooden tablets stating in Japanese that: “No Christianity can be practised”. Magome is number 43 of the 69 post towns along the way to Edo (Tokyo). It is an insight into how the post towns were in the Edo period. Take time to stroll through the small shops on the main street.

The Nakasendo Way continues right through the centre of Magome past these old shops and inns. The trail begins to climb up to the small touge (pass), where there is a good rest spot. You then walk over the Magome Pass (800m) and slowly descend through peaceful woodland. Listen for the roar of the Odaki-Medaki waterfalls, the sound of which slowly fades as you pass streams and rice paddies coming into the old (smaller) village of O-tsumago. Leaving O-tsumago, the trail climbs briefly before descending into the enchanting village of the main village, Tsumago (number 42 of the 69 post towns). The street is lined with traditional Japanese wooden houses, shops and ryokan (inns). Take up the opportunity to don a traditional yukata gown (provided by your inn) and stroll through the streets after dinner.

Meals: B D

Leave the old town of Tsumago at the ancient kosatsuba. The trail then ascends steeply up the valley. Continue through the forest on what our local guide refers to as the Yogawa Forest Route to Nojiri, passing through cedar forests and farmland. This is one of the most scenic sections of the walk. The forest walk joins the Kiso River at Nojiri. After a late lunch in Nojiri, make your way to the train station for a 40-minute ride to Kiso-Fukushima. Located halfway on the Nakasendo Way between Kyoto and Tokyo, Fukushima was an important checkpoint during the Edo period. The barrier station is situated on the hill overlooking the river as well the Yamamura Daikan (a previous official’s mansion). Both are open to the public and have weapons and other artefacts on display. Kiso-Fukushima is also home to the largest stone garden in Japan, and there are a number of Zen Buddhist temples to visit, the most famous being the Kozenji.

Meals: B D

Today a leisurely start lets you spend some time in Kiso-Fukushima before catching the train to Yabuhara, where your trek resumes. By doing this we avoid the highway walking from Kiso-Fukushima. From Yabuhara, the Nakasendo Way climbs up to the Torii Pass, named after the Shinto torii gate, which marks one of four protective sites surrounding Mount Ontake. At 1197m, the Torii Pass is a great vantage point for views of Mount Ontake on a clear day. The descent takes you along narrow mountain paths until you emerge at the outskirts of Narai, the wealthiest of the post towns along the trail. Explore and relax in the cafes and shops of this well-preserved and atmospheric town.

Meals: B D

Make your way by train to Nagano, home of the 1998 Winter Olympics. There’s time to explore Nagano in the afternoon and visit Zenkoji Temple and the surrounding shops and restaurants. The Zenkoji Temple is considered one of Japan’s most important and popular temples. It was founded in the 7th-century, and the town of Nagano formed around the temple. You then board a local bus for a scenic drive through the mountains to Togakushi. After arriving, make your way to your traditional accommodation and enjoy relaxing in the onsen. This area is famous for its soba noodles, which will no doubt form part of your evening’s gourmet meal.

Meals: B D

Today, your final day of hiking, is a day of exploring shrines and ponds in forested mountains. After breakfast, make your way up the steep stairs to the Togakushi Middle Shrine. There has been a shrine of various forms in this location for over 1000 years. While walking back down the stairs look out for three sacred 800-year-old giant cedar trees. You then hike through the forest towards Kotorigaike Pond. Keep an eye out for native birds as you make your way around the pond. Togakushi is one of Japan’s most famous bird sanctuaries with more than 40 species. Continue on up towards Suzuriishi Lookout for a view of the mountain range before making your way down towards Kagamiike Pond. Locals call it the mirror pond as on a still, clear day it reflects Mount Togakushi like a mirror.

As you walk around this pond look out for native mushrooms and wild boar tracks before making your way to the Zuijinmon Gate, the iconic entrance to Okusha (upper shrine). Walking through the gate you will be in awe of 300m-tall cedar trees planted over 400 years ago that border the trail leading to a shrine. After visiting the shrine, make your way down and stop for lunch — we highly recommend the duck soup with soba noodles. After lunch, you will pass by the museum (place a nut in a box as your entry fee). The museum offers a great insight into all the flora and fauna in Togakushi. Afterward, make your way back to the middle shrine, before boarding the local bus back to Nagano. 

Meals: B

Your journey ends today after breakfast.

Meals: B